When Nancy and I left for a ten day
river cruise on the Danube a few weeks ago we were hoping to get away from the
pervasive violence and political tension in the world and the increasing
commercialism and emptiness of the American Christmas season. We succeeded, but
only in part.
The Danube was every bit as beautiful
as we’d imagined it to be. From the 6th, when we arrived in
Budapest, to the 15th, when we left Passau, the Viking Njord, our
floating hotel, slipped effortlessly from city to city.
In Budapest we were treated to the
incredible food and wine, a spectacular view of the Chain Bridge between Buda
and Pest at night, the galleries of the Fine Arts Museum, and the sights and
sounds of the Great Central Market.
The ship then meandered from Budapest
to Bratislava, Slovakia, then to Vienna, then on to the small villages of
Durnstein and Melk in Austria’s spectacular Wachau Valley. Each stop brought
new and pleasant experiences. The mulled honey wine we sampled at the Christmas
Market in Bratislava was to die for. We brought a bottle home as protective insulation
against Kansas’s cold winter winds. In Vienna we rode the subway, visited the
modern art and Jewish museums, and sampled mini sandwiches and tiny mugs of
Austrian beer at a local deli whose name now escapes me. In Durnstein we were
graciously given the gift of a pipe organ concert at the town’s beautiful
cathedral. In Melk we toured the Benedictine abbey and cathedral. I’ve never
seen so much gold in one place in my life.
We spent our last two days in Linz,
Austria and Passau, Germany. The day in Linz was particularly pleasant. We took
a leisurely stroll along an outdoor pedestrian mall and Christmas market,
occasionally stopping to make a purchase or two. By the time we got back to the
ship we had a small bag of clothing, a hand painted Christmas ornament, a pair
of mittens and a wooden Nutcracker doll for a little girl Nancy knows, and a
small straw hedgehog that I suspect will keep our cats amused. In Passau we
spent a couple of hours touring the city, including a gingerbread making
demonstration, our last sips of mulled wine, and a tour of one of the city’s
most spectacular cathedrals. As with the cathedral in Melk, the gold leaf was
everywhere. In addition, the frescoes on the ceiling were mind boggling. It
took a father and son over fifty years to create them.
We’re home now and I’m reflecting on
the trip. More often than not along the way we felt a warm, peaceful feeling. I
think Europe transmits that sense quite well. But, we never could quite escape
the world’s realities. A few days into the cruise we got word of a mall
shooting on Oregon. Then on Friday we heard the news from Connecticut. We were
stunned.
It’s now Monday and I’m hearing the
explanations. Few of them seem satisfactory to me. There’s more to it than
mental illness and misunderstood young people. Will more mental health
counseling fix things? I’m not so sure. Will eliminating guns solve the
problem? I don’t own one so they can take all 300 million of them away as far
as I’m concerned, but it won’t solve the problem.
Why?
It’s written that evil is always “crouching at
the door.” It seeps through society’s cracks. We don’t like to admit it, but
it’s there, often hiding in the most unlikely places. Nancy and I saw this
quite clearly in Budapest. There’s a very simple memorial on the banks of the
Danube, not far from one of Budapest’s beautiful cathedrals. There, fifty or
sixty pairs of shoes once worn by Budapest’s Jews stand as stark witnesses to
the evil man is all too often willing to inflict on his fellow man. In late
1944, thousands of Jews were marched to the riverbank and shot to death. Before
their bodies were dumped in the river the Nazis took their shoes. The logic was
as grisly as it was impeccable. Leather was a very valuable commodity and
couldn’t be wasted.
In Budapest, guns were the
transmitters. But, evil doesn’t need just a gun. Zyklon-B was a gas. In the
Ukraine, depriving Kulaks of food was the tool. In Cambodia’s killing fields
all it took was plastic bags to suffocate millions to death.
In the end, I think any solutions to our violence problems
lie in the human heart. We can work against it, but I suspect evil will be crouching
at the door as long as there are men. As Alexander Solzhenitsyn observed, “The line dividing good and evil cuts through the heart
of every human being. And who is willing to destroy a piece of his own heart?”